Induri Sarees: History, Motifs & The Lost Weave of Maheshwar

Induri Sarees: The Lost Weave of Maheshwar & the heritage of Queen Ahilyabai

Induri sarees—often linked to the early forms of Maheshwari sarees—are among the lesser-known gems of Indian handloom. Woven in the 18th century in Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh, under the patronage of Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar, these sarees carried a unique identity before the Maheshwari weave rose to popularity. Lightweight, elegant, and deeply rooted in regional craft traditions, Induri sarees represent a beautiful chapter of India’s textile history.

Origin of the Induri Saree: A Royal Weave From Maheshwar

Commissioned by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar

During her rule, Queen Ahilyabai revived weaving in Maheshwar by inviting artisans from Malwa, Mandu and Surat. These weavers produced a special silk-cotton saree with geometric borders and subtle body stripes.

Why the Name “Induri”?

Although woven in Maheshwar, the sarees were traded through Indore, which was the more prominent city at the time. Early traders began calling them “Induri sarees”, and the name stayed.

A Heritage That Predates the Modern Maheshwari Saree

While Maheshwari sarees are now globally known, Induri designs were the earliest versions, and today they are rare, treasured and historically significant.

Characteristics of Induri Sarees

1. Silk–Cotton Fabric

Induri sarees use:

Silk in the warp (tana)
Cotton in the weft (bana)

This creates a lightweight, breathable, elegant fabric — the hallmark of Maheshwar handloom.

2. Reversible Borders (Bugdi)

One of the defining features is the reversible border, allowing the saree to be draped from either side.

3. Rui-Phool (Cotton Flower), Karna-Phool, Shakkarpara Motif

A signature design element, the rui-phool motif appears frequently in:

Borders
Pallus
Side panels

It reflects the agricultural heritage of the Narmada region and is also seen in Maharashtrian and Western Deccan textiles.

4. Vertical Body Stripes

Traditional Induri sarees often feature vertical lines running through the body — a design still seen today in select Maheshwari sarees.

5. Geometric & Architectural Motifs

Designs like:

Heera (diamond)
Eent (brick)
Chatai (mat pattern)

These draw inspiration from Maheshwar Fort, Narmada ghats and temple architecture.

Cultural Significance of Induri Sarees

Induri sarees hold a special place in India’s textile heritage because they represent:

The original design language of Maheshwar’s weaving tradition
The cultural influence of Indore, a major trading hub
Shared motifs across Maharashtra, Western Deccan and Central India
A textile lineage directly connected to Queen Ahilyabai Holkar’s golden era

Owning an Induri saree today is like holding a piece of early Maheshwar history.

Induri vs Maheshwari Sarees: What’s the Difference?

Feature	Induri Saree	Maheshwari Saree
Origin	Early Maheshwar weave	Modern evolution of Induri designs
Motif	Rui-phool dominant	Broader motif range (chatai, heera, etc.)
Body	Vertical stripes	Plain, striped or checked
Recognition	Rare & lesser known	Widely known globally
Borders	Reversible	Reversible

Induri sarees are essentially the earlier, more minimal, more region-specific roots of the Maheshwari craft.

Induri Sarees Today

Due to the rise of Maheshwari sarees, original Induri patterns are rarely woven today. However, the motifs, stripes, and rui-phool borders continue to influence modern handloom designs in Maheshwar and the Western Deccan.

For lovers of Indian weaves, Induri sarees represent: