Paithani Weaving process

How Paithani Sarees Are Made — The Weaving Process

Paithani sarees are crafted using an ancient tapestry-style weaving technique where motifs are created through interlocking coloured threads rather than surface embroidery or prints. Originating in Paithan and now centered in Yeola, Maharashtra, the process is meticulous, slow, and labour-intensive—producing heirlooms designed to last generations.

Each saree is woven on a handloom using fine silk for the base and silver/gold-plated zari for borders and motifs.

Silk Preparation & Dyeing

The process begins with sourcing fine, smooth mulberry silk (often ciddle-gatta quality).
The yarn is:

  • Sorted by thickness

  • Degummed to enhance shine

  • Dyed using acid or vat dyes in traditional colour palettes like Neeligunji (blue), Morpankhi (green), Vangi (aubergine), Pophali (yellow), Aboli (peach-pink)

Coconut oil may be applied for softness and lustre—a traditional finishing method.

Warp Setting on the Loom

Warp threads (tana) are stretched across long beams, determining length, width, border placement, and pallu area.
Setting the warp can take an entire day and involves multiple loom components working in harmony (tansal, pavda, fani, etc.).

Paithani warps are dense and tightly aligned, contributing to the saree’s smooth, compact texture.

Weft Work & Body Weaving

The weft (bana) is interlaced using shuttles.
The base weave is typically a simple, tight weave that allows motifs to sit flat and crisp without disturbing drape.

This foundation also enables the colour-changing shot effect when different hues are used for warp vs weft threads.

Motif Weaving — Tapestry (Kadiyal & Split Weaving)

The highlight of a Paithani is its motifs, created using tapestry techniques, not jacquard or powerloom patterns.

There are three common methods:

Technique How It Works Result
Split Tapestry Two colours meet without interlocking Subtle split lines
Interlocking / Kadiyal Adjacent coloured wefts interlock Seamless multi-colour motifs
Dovetailing Two colours alternate and anchor each other Strong transitions for detailed motifs

Each motif—like Mor, Bangadi Mor, Asawalli, Lotus, Muniya—requires separate shuttles and manual colour changes.

On complex pallus, dozens of shuttles may be used simultaneously.

Border & Pallu Weaving

Paithani borders and pallus are often woven separately and simultaneously with:

  • Dense zari insertion

  • Reversible patterns

  • Solid colour contrast zones

  • Multi-layer colour weft tapestries

The border is typically reversible (same on both sides)—a hallmark of traditional Paithani craftsmanship.

Finishing & Polishing

After weaving:

  • Saree is washed to remove dye residue

  • Softly starched or steamed for drape

  • Tassels or kinar are hand-twisted

  • Zari sections are checked and trimmed

High-end pieces may undergo light calendaring to enhance shine without flattening fabric texture.

Time & Effort Required

Saree Type Approx. Time
Simple Paithani 1–2 months
Brocade border Paithani 3–6 months
Full pallu tapestry 6–12 months
Luxury heirloom pieces 1–2 years

Multiple artisans contribute to a single saree: dyers, warp setters, tapestry weavers, zari specialists, and finishers.

What Makes Paithani Weaving Unique

  • Motifs woven—not embroidered or printed

  • Reversible borders & pallus

  • Rich zari used as structural thread, not embellishment

  • Handcrafted tapestry technique requiring mastery, not machinery

  • Colour-shifting shot effect under light

A Paithani saree is not just handloom—it is an artwork created thread by thread.

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