Chanderi Weaving Process

How Chanderi Sarees Are Made — The Weaving Process

Chanderi sarees are known for their sheer texture, lightweight feel, and soft lustre, achieved through a delicately balanced handloom process using fine silk, cotton, and zari. The weaving tradition in Chanderi (Madhya Pradesh) combines ancient techniques with modern yarn innovations to create a fabric that is both airy and luxurious.

Unlike heavy brocades, Chanderi weaving prioritises finesse, transparency, and subtle sheen.

Yarn Selection & Preparation

The process begins with selecting fine-count yarns:

• Silk warps for lustre and strength

• Cotton wefts for breathability

• Zari threads for borders and motifs

Yarns are cleaned, softened, and sometimes degummed (in case of silk) to enhance smoothness. They are then wound onto bobbins and spools for weaving.

Dyeing the Yarn

Yarns are dyed in controlled dye baths so the fibres retain their natural drape and slight translucency.

Key goals during dyeing:

• Preserve lustre

• Maintain softness (no harsh chemical treatments)

• Ensure even colour flow across long warp threads

Natural and low-impact dyes are increasingly used among heritage weavers.

Graph Planning & Motif Layout

Designs are traditionally mapped on graph paper before weaving.

These charts guide:

• Border layouts

• Buti placement

• Pallus & motifs

• Colour distribution

Motifs often include peacocks, florals, coins, jhumkas, bootis, and temple edges—woven, not printed.

Warp Setting on the Loom

The warp (tana) is stretched across long beams on a pit loom or frame loom.

This step determines:

• Saree width & length

• Placement of zari borders

• Sheerness and thread density

Chanderi uses high warp thread counts with slightly lower weft density, creating the iconic translucent look.

Hand Weaving Begins

Weaving is done manually using foot pedals to raise warp threads while the weft passes through with a shuttle.

Characteristics of Chanderi weaving:

• Fine yarns interlaced to keep fabric light

• Silk warp gives sheen while cotton/silk weft adds softness

• Zari inserted selectively to form motifs

This balanced technique creates elegance without heaviness.

Weaving Motifs Into the Fabric

Unlike printed Chanderi, authentic versions have motifs woven directly on the loom using extra-weft or tapestry techniques.

Motif weaving may involve:

• Separate shuttles for zari

• Floating weft yarns anchored into fabric

• Geometric placement based on graph design

This gives motifs texture and dimension—not a flat print.

Finishing & Polishing

After weaving:

• Sarees are washed to remove finishing oils

• Light starching is applied for crispness

• The fabric is pressed and polished to enhance silk shine

• Edges and tassels are completed by hand

High-end pieces may undergo gentle calendaring for an even softer glow.

How Long Does It Take?

The craft involves multiple specialists—dyers, warp setters, loom weavers, motif weavers, and finishers.

Why Chanderi Weaving is Unique

• Natural translucency from fine warp counts

• Silk-zari interplay for soft shimmer

• Motifs woven, not printed

• Light weight with luxury appeal

• Perfect for warm climates

Chanderi weaving is a study in restraint—luxury expressed through lightness rather than weight.

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